Page 74 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

4 Stockport reed: A Historical English System 1 Huddersfield = 1 dent per inch.
The Stockport Reed system is one of those specific Therefore,
historical reed count systems, named after the town 10s Irish,
of Stockport in England, which was a significant textile
center. 25
=
In the Stockport system, the reed count tells you the 1
number of dents in 2 inches of the reed. = 25s Huddersfield.
• Why 2 inches? It’s just a historical convention. So, the count in Huddersfield System is 25s
Imagine it’s like how some countries measure
liquid in liters and others in gallons – just different Example No. 02
standard units for convenience within their context. Find the count of a 40s Radcliff in the Stockport System.
• How to convert Stockport to Dents per Inch (DPI): Solution:

• If a reed is, for example, a “60s Stockport reed,” Count,
it means:
40 × 2
• There are 60 dents in a 2-inch span of the reed. =
1
• To find out how many dents are in a single
inch (which is often more useful for universal = 80s Stockport.
calculations), you simply divide the Stockport So, the count in Stockport System is the 80s
number by 2.
Example No. 03
• So, a 60s Stockport reed = 60 dents/2 inches=30
dents per inch (DPI). Find the number of ends per inch in a reed of 3/72s
Bradford.
Counting of reed count and heald count in weaving
Solution:
The following two tables will be used during counting
Reed & Heald’s count in weaving. 72s Bradford,
72 × 20
A system based on the number of dents in a given space. = ends per inch

Name of system Basis of numbering 36
Stockport Number of dents per 2 inches = 40 ends per inch.
Radcliff Number of dents per 1 inch Therefore, the number of ends per inch = 3 × 4
Huddersfield Number of dents per 1 inch = 120 ends per inch.
Metric Number of dents per 1 decm Counting of heald count

The system based on the number of groups or beers in The number of heald eyes per inch across the healds
a given space. in a set expresses the count of the healds. When a set
contains 4 shafts, it is called a plain set.
Name of system Basics of numbering
Bolton 20 dents per 24.5 inches Example No. 04
Bradford 20 dents per 36 inches Find the count of the healds that will be required for
Blackburn 20 dents per 45 inches weaving a 6 shaft satin fabric using 72s Stockport reed,
drawn 3 ends per dent.
Irish 100 dents per 40 inches Solution
Leeds 19 dents per 9 inches
Macclesfield 100 dents per 36 inches Number of ends per inch in the reed,
All the above systems are convertible into dents per = 3 × 72
inch basis. 2
Example No. 01: Find the count of 10s Irish reed into = 108 ends.
the Huddersfield System. Therefore, the rate of knitting

Solution: 108
10s Irish, = 6
10 × 100
= = 18 healds per inch on the ribband.
40
Thus we require 6 healds of 72s plain set.
= 25 dents per inch.
64 Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.4.36&37